The manufacture of boots and shoes : being a modern treatise of all the processes of making and manufacturing footgear by Golding F. Y. (Frank Yeates) b. 1867

Author:Golding, F. Y. (Frank Yeates), b. 1867
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Footwear -- Manufacture and trade, Shoe industry
Publisher: London : Chapman & Hall ; New York : Van Nostrand
Published: 1902-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

productive of a better-fitting golosh. The point 3,* Fig. 125, is also sometimes used. When this point is adopted, a deeper golosh wing may be produced, nearly one-ninth of an inch. The best process is to take the standard and lay it upon the folded edge of the paper to be used for cutting the golosh, putting 0 and T (Fig. 125) level with YXra (Fig. 125, A). Trace while in this position, from T to D, and C to 3 (Fig. 125). Place the needle point, or tip of the finger on G, and raise the wing until GF is parallel to OH, the folded edge. Mark from centre of front curve to 3, and thence to F. Return the standard to the first position and use 4 (Fig. 125) as a second pivot, raising the wing until F on the standard coincides with F on the golosh, tracing. Trace bottom and back, and the golosh will be as YXo??/ (Fig. 125, A). Proceed for excessive spring in a similar manner, and a tracing as YXww (Fig. 125, A) will be obtained. Seaming, stretching, etc., allowances will now be made, and the golosh cut out. See also Fig. 124.

A golosh vamp is illustrated in Fig. 125, B, the dotted one showing the vamp cut dead, the other marked vamp, cut with spring, using S as pivot. It should be noted that the length round edge has been increased by the amount from V to P, which will be " foul " in lasting.

The effect of springing the golosh is to tighten the top, and to lengthen the bottom edges. The seam at the back of a golosh may be obviated by cutting it as shown in Fig. 126, G.

Other Parts of Standards are shown in Fig. 120. The wing, circular vamp, square vamp, and back golosh need no further comment. The whole-cut shoe is a type of a principle that is applicable to several designs (such as canvas, athletic, insertion shoes, etc.), and is here given to represent, by KMNO, a turned-in front whole-cut shoe, fastened by a fancy-cut inserted strap. After the line wO has been drawn, the crease-line wKz should be made. From this line a distance equal to the amount required * This point is found by taking from G the distance GC.

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